Simply fire up the garbage disposal and throw your SSD in

Anger is no excuse to be inefficient with propellant after all

It didn’t really specify that, so I read it as the author implying that Android users need to be careful now because even though other Android users can’t see your group names, iOS users now can.

They say

It’s worth noting that Apple has long allowed anyone to change the name of a group text in iMessage as long as everyone in the group was using an iOS device. So RCS in iOS 18 effectively extends this capability to Android device owners.

Which sounds like the author is thinking about this backwards. The iOS update didn’t extend the group renaming feature to Android users, iOS actually added Android’s group renaming feature. For a while now, as long as everyone in your group was using an Android device with RCS, they could all see and change the group name. I think the author must not have realized that this was a thing until now because it was less likely for every group member to be on Android than it was for them to all be on iOS.

Not in any texting app I’ve seen. My MMS groups in Google Messages don’t let me name the group for everyone.

Redditor Dane Gleessak noted that if someone with an Android phone changes the name of a group text, the name will be changed for iOS users in the group text as well. That’s a major change compared to Google Messages on Android, which allows you to rename group texts for your eyes only.

That last part isn’t true, you’ve been able to rename RCS group chats for everyone for a long time. If you try to change the name, it even warns you that everyone else will see it. My parents both have Android phones, so I have an RCS group chat with them, and any changes I make to our group name will appear for them too.

If you’ve never had an RCS group chat before, which would have previously required every member to be using Android, I can see why someone might think this is a new feature though. Prior to the new iOS update, if you had an iPhone in the chat, things would fall-back to using MMS, which doesn’t support group names, so only you would see it.

I think Nintendo’s lawyers must have determined it’s inspiration in this case though. Like you said, they’re suing for patent infringement and not copyright, so they must think a legal challenge on their creature designs is a lost cause.

More like “it’s not wrong to take inspiration from something else”.

Works well, but you’ll have to tinker with the graphics settings.

Hey I just saw your update! I’m glad you’re getting better results, but like you mentioned, something is definitely still wrong. I’m still pretty convinced your nozzle is clogged, even though it’s new, and I’ll do my best to explain why!

To start, if your printer wasn’t working normally before you printed in wood, I’m totally wrong about everything below and you can stop reading here!

If your printer was working normally before you tried printing in wood though, that means the e-steps were already calibrated correctly, and they wouldn’t need to be re-calibrated after replacing the hot end. If you had replaced the extruder and it started acting this way, that would be a good reason to re-calibrate the e-steps, but replacing the hot-end shouldn’t have had an impact. After swapping an extruder, you calibrate e-steps to basically teach the printer how to extrude the correct amount of filament in the real world again since the new extruder might have different specs from the original and the printer has no way to know something has changed. A hot-end swap doesn’t necessitate recalibrating e-steps though because the extruder is the same and it’s still going to be pushing the same amount of filament through the printer.

If your nozzle is clogged and you recalibrate the e-steps, the measurements you take will be off since the printer can’t push filament through at the rate it should be able to. Your new benchy looks better than before, but that could be because the higher e-steps you calculated mean the printer is now forcing more filament past the blockage by working the extruder more. It’s been calibrated to compensate for the fact it can’t push filament through fast enough, but it’s working harder to do this and it will severely limit its speed before it starts underextruding again. I’m guessing this is the reason for the 3 hour long benchy at 20mm/s? You shouldn’t need to be at 220 C to get PLA to print at 20mm/s from a 0.4mm nozzle either.

Not all nozzles or hotends are well-made or handled with care at the factory. It’s totally possible you got one that shipped with some sort of tiny unnoticeable debris inside that worked its way down into the nozzle as the filament pushed it along. I have a cheap bag of 0.4mm nozzles that have metal shavings stuck in some of them and your first benchy is exactly what my prints look like when I use one of them. If possible, I still recommend changing the nozzle before doing anything more expensive like replacing the extruder. You’ll probably need to set the e-steps back to what they were before changing them though, otherwise you’ll be extruding too much filament if the new nozzle isn’t clogged and the old one is.

B I G S C R E E N

Wow I just looked it up and that is the worst design I’ve ever seen. That’s a ton of work just to replace one of the most commonly changed parts.

The fact it won’t print below 220° makes me think it’s a problem with your hotend, and my best guess is that your nozzle is clogged. The higher temperature might be helping the extruder to squeeze a bit of filament around the clog, but not enough.

Changing the nozzle is quick and easy, and most printers come with a spare or two, so I would give that a shot before diving too deep into diagnostics.

For Samsung at least, tapping the dot will tell you what’s accessing what. I can’t confirm if it works on other flavors of Android unfortunately.

Pull open quick settings and tap the dot.

I might be using it wrong, but One Note was king in college and still is for my D&D session notes now too. I never present them to anyone though.

Just ordered a pack of silicone springs as mentioned above!

What does this mean?

I printed some locks for the leveling knobs to keep them in place, would new springs do the same thing?

I don’t think it was squished, it came out without any of those ripples and the perimeter didn’t have any elephant’s foot.

Might be! Depends on how long you’ve had the printer because more recent orders will have shipped with the allegedly fixed firmware. Basically, you want to never set the z-offset in the web UI without having the fixed firmware, otherwise things will get weird and my build plate has the scar to prove it.