𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆

  • 73 Posts
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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • Yeah, I’m kinda volunteering for the mod part. In truth I think it would take the respective instance admin setting up such a thing specifically. Like create a throwaway or something so that the actual user is not propagated to other admin or the full activity pub feed being transported. The one instance admin would know and have the ability to filter or block, but that information would never escape the one server. As a mod I would be blind to actual potential bad actors and only filter at the liberal community and comments level. So basically a normal community that replaces the OP name with Anon, and never shares the real ID with anyone.


  • I keep seeing people go to the effort of creating a throwaway account to say or post stuff they want or need to externalize on the threadiverse. I’m willing to bet that for every person that goes to that much effort, there are likely somewhere between 10-100 people that lack an outlet and motivation to do the same. Greentext is just a mutual pretext on my part for genuinely caring about people under pressure right now and in need of an outlet in a way that is not really well supported by the fediverse or activity pub.

    We are small enough here that regular names and people can hold meaning in familiarity and memorable history. Kind words and social interaction anonymously from these may hold considerably more value and meaning within this social dynamic that is not afforded elsewhere.




  • 𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆@lemmy.worldMto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBambu Printers Discussion
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    13 days ago

    I have no skin in this, but VC is involved with Bambu, as I understand things. That never goes well for consumers. They backpedaled to slow down the path to closed garden exploitation, but took no steps to open source or sell a legitimate product that can be owned. The solution is unplug it from the internet cause we gonna do what we gonna do (fu fu)

    Build a Voron and own it for life. I know the excuses, but burning ownership-money, only to rent what someone else controls is mental. In the big picture, that is willingly selling your right to citizenship for neo feudalism as a slave to an overlord. It really is that simple. Normalizing that dystopia hurts everyone else too. But hey you do you. I’m happy for ya if that is your cup of tea.


  • Smooth prusa powder coated works great.

    Drying makes a gigantic difference. It only takes around an hour in the open before TPU changes significantly from any ambient moisture and become visible in the print.

    If you can control the moisture to a minor degree, you can alter the mechanical properties significantly. Once you hear popping, you’ll likely start blowing holes in prints, but there is a stage before this where the bubbles of gases are present but are not coalescing into the larger audible voids of escaping steam. You will see this on long prints using dried TPU filament left out in the open. There will be a much tougher start to the print that gradually degrades into a slightly softer and more flexible texture. It will likely turn slightly foam-like spongy rubbery soft for a section and then it will start popping and dropping walls with holes in the structure.

    If you write down the room temperature and humidity and note the time it takes to get to this moisture property, it becomes possible to alter the flexible properties or empirical hardness of a TPU to make it behave in off label ways. This is essentially creating your own rudimentary foaming or light weight filament. It works best for vase mode or other small single wall structures. I have used this based on intuition alone. I imagine with a bit of record keeping one could control the humidity of a box to do longer prints within this state of foaming softness. I don’t know of anyone using a humidifier like the ones for acoustic guitar cases or cigars in a filament box, but that would be an interesting thing to play with too.



  • You can just slap a dial gauge on the gantry and move the X/Y manually to see exactly what the deviation is. A decent second-hand dial gauge on eBay will run you $20 shipped.

    If you get into the weeds, there is not an accurate method of triggering any form of mechanical stop that involves touch or a hall effect probe. You must get into optics for real accuracy, but that is nonsense for the materials and scope of printing. You would need to eliminate many other variables like the filament accuracy and how backlash and step accuracy are eliminated as issues.

    As a former owner of an auto body shop with employees, most people do not know what clean is or how tooth is required. Like isopropyl alcohol has its place but is ultimately extremely weak at real cleaning problems. In automotive paint, silicone is a major problem. It primarily comes from tire dressing that makes them look slick black. The amount of effort it takes to remove that junk for automotive quality work is insane. Most chemicals just push the junk around but leaves or dilutes the issue often making it worse. One of the big tricks in automotive stuff is (to use a chemical cleaning step first but -) a few drops of dish soap in the wet sanding bucket. The light soap will keep the sand paper clean and working longer, but makes most work also cleaning work. Anyways, dish soap can be very effective. Acetone occasionally on a surface is also effective. Virgin lacquer thinner is the strongest common solvent but it can react with lots of stuff and you are unlikely to find true virgin solvent. The recycled stuff has a paint stripper component in it that will cause epic nightmares and reacts with almost all plastics. Acetone is much cleaner and consistent unless it is sold for junk like nail polish.

    The general rule of thumb is to assume a mechanical tooth adhesion is the primary form of bonding unless there is a catalyst involved (2k urethane/epoxy primers/clear). That rule can easily apply to 3d printing and bed adhesion. I see a lot of the same types of effects from different surfaces and filaments. In automotive paint, there are even special adhesion promoters like Bulldog for spraying plastic parts ahead of other finishes. I had other adhesion promotion tricks too, like a mist coating of clear coat. The main trick with all automotive paint adhesion is to know what grit or “tooth” each thing you’re spraying wants to grab onto and prep accordingly. So in 3d printing I use a similar approach with the general safe bet of sanding my smooth build plates to 600 grit. With sanding, do not start dirty, like you’re trying to embed junk into the surface. Start clean, then knock off the shine to a smooth and consistent matte finish on the entire surface. When it comes to sanding like this, edges and any anomalies are absolutely forbidden to sand. Never touch your edges until last when everything else is done. Edges are always thinnest and most vulnerable to causing issues especially for the inexperienced. You match them to the rest of the matte surface carefully at the end.

    Clean a smooth build plate with acetone like once or twice a year and then sand it to matte, clean that with dish soap, then alcohol with each print. That will completely eliminate contamination as a cause. If you have old skool clean glass with no coatings as a build plate, sanding is optional because you can use something like lacquer thinner or less effective acetone to get it absolutely clean.

    Perfect first layers are possible with enough fussing with the software. If you really want to level the bed with hardware, use a dial gauge clamped to the extruder. That will remove all of the averaging and inaccuracies from probing if it is a quality gauge that is smooth and not sticky. You would need to get into optics for true accuracy like with closed loop control systems that are an order of magnitude more expensive than 3d printers. 3d printers are precision machines with no accuracy. The 0,0 home location is always slightly different, but all measurements are based upon this location. This issue becomes relevant with IDEX and CNC. Going well beyond these – in optics accuracy requires a defraction grading and alignment of light wave patterns. I so want to get into that one to grind my own telescope mirrors. Typically accurate machines use a flag of metal sticking out somewhere at a known location and an optical encoder switch that gets interrupted without anything touching as this is typically the closest you’ll get to real accuracy down to the clock and instructions timing of the interrupt routine in the microcontroller.

    If you have v-roller wheels on extrusions, one other major potential issue is that extrusions have a relatively large twist tolerance component in their specification. It is extremely difficult to detect this kind of twist, but it is a major potential issue. It generally requires a high metrology grade granite surface block and parallel sticks to measure twist in a precision instrument’s linear bearings… as far as I understand it. I have seen such things being measured but have never done so myself.


  • Very cool. I was thinking about ways of making a potentiometer knob on an audio amp more visually interesting. The moire effect might be one to play around with.

    I don’t think I would trust this one in practice, but the effect is interesting. I found it far more necessary to learn the vernier scale with micrometers. It felt much more useful understanding the practical limitations and scope of when to use calipers versus a mic. While there are super accurate calipers, relatively cheap calipers and micrometers are far cheaper and easier for most people to access.

    When it comes to radius gauges I trust these more than any of the others I have tried:

    I know this kinda isn’t the point, but using it as an excuse to share – the fishing leader line to hold a set like this is key to making them super handy. Unfortunately I have only used micrometers on a few 3d printing projects. Those are more used within the machining realm.





  • The UEFI boot system is tricky and you need to get along with Secure Boot to do this. Secure Boot is outside of the Linux kernel. Both Fedora and Ubuntu have systems for this. Fedora uses the Anaconda system and I believe they do it best. I have had a W11 partition for 2 years and never used it once. It can’t even get on the internet with my firewall setup, but it is there and never had any issues the 3 times I logged into it.

    I think all of the Fedora systems support the shim key and secure boot but I know Workstation does. For Ubuntu I think it is just the regular vanilla Ubuntu desktop that the shim supports. This may be somewhat sketchy with Nvidia or maybe not. Nvidia “”““open sourced””“” their kernel code but the actual nvcc compiler required to build the binaries is still proprietary crap.

    I have a 3080Ti gaming laptop. It isn’t half bad with 16 GB of video RAM from all the way back in 2021. Nvidia is artificially holding back the vram because of monopoly nonsense. The new stuff has very little real consumer value as a result, at least with AI stuff I run. The hardware is a little faster, but more vram is absolutely critical and new stuff that is the same or worse than what I have from 3 generations and nearly 5 years ago is ridiculous.

    The battery life blows and the GPU likely won’t even work on battery. It will get donkey balls hot with AI workloads, especially any kind of image gen. This results in lots of thermal throttling. All AI packages run as servers on your network. If you are thinking along these lines if running your own models, get a tower and run the thing remotely.

    I manage, and need the ergonomics for physical disability reasons, but I still would prefer to have a separate tower to run models from.

    Anyways, you can sign your own UEFI keys to use any distro, but this can be daunting for some people. The US defense department has a good PDF guide on setting your own keys. The UEFI bootloader for the machine may not have all key signing features implemented. There is a way to boot into UEFI directly and set the keys manually but this is not easy to find great guides on how to do it step by step. Gentoo has a tutorial on this, but it assumes a high level of competency.

    Other than signing your own keys, the shim keys mentioned are special keys signed by Microsoft for the principal maintainer of the distro. These slide under the Microsoft key to keep secure boot enabled.

    If you boot any secure boot enabled OS, the bootloader is required to delete any bootable unsigned code it finds. It does not matter if it is a shimmed Fedora or W11. If you have any other OS present in the boot list, it should be deleted. W11 is SB only, and this is where the real issues arise.


  • It is not really that simple, under the surface the hardware is proprietary and different. It would be impossible to verify how this is being manipulated in testing unless the full hardware documentation was made available. That would reveal all the stollen IP and illegal nonsense happening on all mobile devices and bankrupt these criminal organizations making hardware. Plus we would fully own what we pay for and be able to support it indefinitely in the mainline Linux kernel, taking away the power to steal from everyone in the world by manipulative proprietary orphan kernels.

    If anyone in the EU had sense, they would require all hardware sold to be publicly transparent and fully documented. That is the only way to save democracy in the biggest of pictures. There is no room for bowdlerization of information in democracy albeit from a source bottleneck, or middle person filtering or holding the potential to filter. Trust is for ideologues and fools. Citizens are required to be skeptical and fully informed for democracy to work. No one has a right to mask and obfuscate communication and the flow of information but that is what proprietary hardware creates. The level of exploitation is irrelevant to the nominalized potential.


  • Stuff like WiFi hardware and the configuration of how 2.4 GHz switches to 5.8 GHz along with how the carrier is configured to use WiFi and your firewall all play a major part in battery life.

    Graphene has been messing with the 2.4 to 5.8 transition a lot recently in updates. I haven’t looked at the actual source but just noticing how well my network connects and stays connected, along with how that changes with each webview/vanadium update points at this being the case. My battery life varies a lot as a result. I’m probably an odd edge case as I live in a super dense area for WiFi and just use 5.8 GHz only as it is less of an issue. When the signal strength is not ideal, there is some code that blocks the 5.8 band periodically, probably assuming that there must be a 2.4 GHz band available. The frequency that this drop and block happens has changed and my phone goes from a solid 2 day battery life with rather poor connectivity across the house to 1 day of battery life (into the red) but great connectivity. I have almost no apps and nothing that has background internet permissions. I have nothing from Google. Almost everything I do is done in Vanadium, I restart regularly, and sit behind a whitelist DNS filter on a separate device. So I have about the best real world test case possible for what is actually draining the battery.


  • 𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆@lemmy.worldtoLinux@lemmy.mlSecurity Focused Daily Driving Distros?
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    25 days ago

    Are you insane? Debian is a base distro like any other and runs more hardware than any other. It has all of the bootstrapping tools to get hardware working.

    Canonical is a server company and Ubuntu server is literally the product.

    Arch is absolute garbage for most users unless you have a CS degree or you have entirely too much time on your hands and don’t mind an OS as your life project. Arch abhors tutorial content in all documentation and therefore dumps users into a rabbit hole regularly. Pacman is the worst package manager as it will actively break a system and present the user with the dumbest of choices at random because the maintainers are ultimately sadistic and lackadaisical. Arch is nearly identical to Gentoo with Arch binaries often based on Gentoo builds, yet Gentoo provides relevant instruction and documentation with any changes that require user intervention and does so at a responsible and ethical level that shows kindness, respect, and consideration completely absent from Arch. Arch is a troll by trolls for trolls. I’m more than capable of running it now, but I would never bother with such inconsiderate behavior.


  • Who responds to a general skepticism as a personal insult while having no substantive material or value in reply and projects further onto absolutely unfounded and unrelated nonsense in a rant. That was remarkably pathetic and quite disappointing to see from any human. I expect you to act exactly like in real life and if you said this to my face, I’d call you a stupid asshole too.