I mean, you said it yourself and I went and checked. On March 7, there was a us embassy alert to avoid large gatherings over the next 48 hours. Wouldn’t be much to check it out before executing and replan.
https://ru.usembassy.gov/security-alert-avoid-large-gatherings-over-the-next-48-hours/
And you’re not expected to do half the laundry, the dishes, and still pay a cleaning fee.
I think they’re saying that they just want to be able to hide the post once they’ve seen it so it doesn’t keep popping up, not to prevent from seeing it at all.
You know, I never notice the (M) in NSFW posts and every time “shit, didn’t need to see that.”
But that’s me, and bravo for having the gumption to put it out there. Updoot from this accidental clicker.
I don’t think you’re going to end up getting any comments about successfully getting this to work, but hopefully I’m wrong and my comment ends up being irrelevant.
It doesn’t look like this is possible, by design from Samsung. We’re talking deep in the smart things app a check for if it’s a Samsung system and throwing an FU if the system isn’t.
Hate to tell you to spend more money, especially for something Samsung who dicked you in the first place, but you might be best served getting a second hand or refurb Samsung tablet to use for administering your tags.
This points to op not using default fedora partition schema but disk1 being the fedora install across those partitions
Or it could be swap, root, and home
I think this is what’s going on. I’m guessing the smallest partition is the boot partition, the 1gb might be the Linux swap, and the 100gb the Linux install.
We’ve done many of the same mods. Klipper, Skr, Sprite pro, crtouch. I did the dual z drive mod too, though I have no idea if that’s actually improved anything or not. Probably now that I’ve setup input shaping and have this thing whipping through prints.
Ok, yeah, forget the paper as far as regular leveling goes with the cr touch. Have you tried confirming your z offset since you changed the nozzle? If you haven’t, it should be fine every time you do something to the hotend.
Also make sure your heat block isn’t stripped out. I had a bitch of a time printing for a while only to discover I had overtightened my middle and stripped out the threads in the heat block. After I replaced it I had consistent good prints again.
Is there a way you can confirm your bed or nozzle temps? I know for the nozzle that’s a really difficult thing to do, it’s so small to be able to check with anything.
I ask because with your unexpected crash the other day from your post history, I wonder if your main board has glitched.
A 90c bed shouldn’t melt petg I’d think, so something is definitely weird there.
Might be worth trying to reflash your firmware in case the glitch isn’t hardware.
What other mods have you done to your printer besides spring spacers?
When you level the bed, is it manually and with a piece of paper to help gauge the distance?
These things have so many places something can go off that it’s really difficult to help troubleshoot without being there. Hopefully something in this post helps you out.
If you ever do digitize it, or even going forward for other recipes you use, I recommend checking out the recipe app Paprika 3. I’ve been using it for years now and love it. It even bypasses pay walls on recipe sites like NYT cooking when downloading. Enter the url in the browser section, and hit download regardless of the paywalls I’ve encountered so far. I put cocktail recipes in there too.