• 5 Posts
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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: August 15th, 2023

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  • (thinks out lound…)

    If you could force different speeds and different voltages, you can make some guesses as to what the cable might support.

    USB packets use CRC checks, so a bad checksum may indicate a speed or physical problem. (Besides stating the obvious, my point is that doing strict checks for each USB mode gives CRC more value.)

    I just looked over the source code for libusb (like I knew what I was looking for, or something) and it seems that some of the driver(?) components hook really deep into the kernel. There might be a way to test specific parts of any type of handshake (for dataflow or voltage negotiation) to isolate specific wires that are bad by the process of elimination.

    I think my point is that a top-down approach is likely possible, but it’s probabilistic.



  • All good! It’s the same situation as I described and I see that increasing temps did help. It’s good to do a temperature tower test for quality and also a full speed test after that. After temperature calibration, print a square that is only 2 or 3 bottom layers that covers the entire bed at full speed or faster. (It’s essentially a combined adhesion/leveling/extrusion volume/z offset test, but you need to understand what you are looking at to see the issues separately.)

    If you have extrusion problems, the layer line will start strong from the corners, get thin during the acceleration and may thicken up again at the bottom of the deceleration curve. A tiny bit of line width variation is normal, but full line separation needs attention.

    Just be aware if you get caught in a loop of needing to keep bumping up temperatures as that starts to get into thermistor, heating element or even some mechanical issues/problems.



  • 185C is cold for PLA. It may work for slow prints, but my personal minimum has always been around 200C and my normal print temperature is usually at 215C.

    Long extrusions are probably sucking out all the heat from the nozzle and it’s temporarily jamming until the filament can heat up again.

    Think of the hotend as a reservoir for heat. For long extrusions, it will drain really fast. Once the hotend isn’t printing for a quick second, it will fill back up really fast. At 185C, you are trying to print without a heat reservoir. I mean, it’ll work, but not during intense or extended extrusions.