I think it’s a good added measure to stop a print, in this case something caused the spaghetti, it would have kept causing spaghetti but the cover popping off stopped the print. I’ve got about 400 hrs on my p1s (upgraded from p1p), and I’ve never had the faceplate pop off. I would guess this is an isolated incident.

Love it when printers actually solve a problem!

Same issue, been going on for months now. I read somewhere that it has to do with the Jerboa client and an upcoming update is supposed to fix it…

What can I say, I’m a middle-of-the-road type guy

68 wide, of course!

SCSI>USB-C

I agree, if you’re not having issues and are otherwise happy with the output. I went the DD route after my extruder cracked, and at the time the (slight) speed increase I was able to get on my e3v2 was worth it. The NG setup is quite good if you do choose to go that route, however.

I have the microswiss NG/DD setup on my ender, works considerably better than stock. It is expensive though. Note that the nozzle that comes with it isn’t hardened (at least mine wasnt), so if you’re going to do filled / abrasive filaments you’ll definitely want to change that out. Also note that once you change to DD your steps will need to be recalibrate, but the microswiss website walks you through all of it

Would seem odd, but if it seems like your leveling wheels are backing off, maybe the threads are worn on them? It would suck to replace them only to find out that wasn’t the issue though, but if you have a spare set / originals if you’ve upgraded, maybe see if those are more stable?

^^this. Also if you open up the screen, maybe someone tried to flash it and left the SD card inside, that will cause this too. Ask me how I know 🤦‍♂️

I think it’s “Ze German” in me that wants to build a printer from scratch lol. That, and 350x350 core xy sounds like fun. I need to have at least three unfinished projects going at once to feel sane 🤣

How do you like the Qidi? Sorry I’ve been neglecting this group for a while if you’ve been “harping” on them… I saw a couple reviews and they looked interesting

Firmware is closed, yes. Bambu’s slicer is just a skinned version of Prusaslicer though. Which, tbh, is kind of scummy lol.

At some point I’ll take the Voron plunge, but for now I’ll just watch my p1s shake all over the place on its silly rubber feet 😂

Having finally seen a Prusa in action, I would have to say they’re both great printers (I have a p1p that I upgraded to a p1s). I understand the arguments against Bambu, but honestly if you’re not printing anything overtly illegal or truly creating things you plan on copyrighting, you’re fine, and if you are that paranoid, you can remove the tape behind the front faceplate and simply unplug the wifi antenna and just print from the SD card, just save in .3mf

Think of the two as Android (Prusa) vs Apple (Bambu). Both will do the job just fine, just depends on which ecosystem you prefer.

I’ve heard nothing but good things about these, if I didn’t have a Bambu I’d definitely look into getting one

Make sure nothing is bent, cracked or otherwise broken. When assembling, make sure the z gantry is square - put the screws in loosely and slowly tighten them evenly, then before making them tight, make sure it’s square. Best bet for a beginner FDM machine is going to be a basic PLA.

The e3v3 looks like they at least corrected the major e3 issues, dual screws and abl out of the box. Looks like they’re cheap on Amazon now too, I’d imagine microcenter has them at the same price. I’d avoid any of the “lesser” ender 3 models at this point unless you’re really in a money crunch and absolutely love replacing/ upgrading parts. I do know the Sovol SV06 has a lot of followers and they do come highly recommended in roughly the same price point.

If she’s mainly going to be making cosplay stuff, make sure the build volume is adequate, or she’ll have to learn more advanced techniques for making parts in multiple pieces. I’d also recommend buying ANY Creality printer from someplace you can return/exchange it, their QC is all over the map.

This. I’d avoid using the hardened nozzle until you have a filament that requires it (glow in the dark, wood, CF, etc). Between the part cooling fan and the poor thermal conductivity of the steel (assuming you do have the nozzle fully tightened), it’s an uphill battle. If you really need that nozzle more or less permanent, try using an enclosure to keep ambient temps up, but note PLA doesn’t necessarily do well in enclosures that get too hot

Literally all this. I own a ender 3 v2 and know a couple other people with them. I got mostly lucky with mine, the extruder broke a little earlier than most, however. I went down the upgrade hole a d realized I could have bought a better printer. But don’t let that dissuade you from trying one, like others have said, their QA is all over the place. You may get a gem or a lemon, it’s a crapshoot. From scouring the internet, the ones I see that get the most love in the more budget friendly space are the Prusa Mini and the Sovol SV06. I jumped in a little deeper and got a Bambulabs P1P and couldn’t be happier for $600 out the door @microcenter.

My advice is, watch a bunch of reviews, but instead of buying into what they’re saying about the printer itself, note the features each printer has and see what ones interest you the most, then look for the printer that has those features.

More advice? You got it, buddy. Don’t do what I see a lot of people suggest and go out and buy an Ender 3x vx and also buy a metric ass ton of upgrades because someone had them in a review or suggested it on the internet. Set it up and print some calibration cubes, 1st layer tests, temp towers and the like to see how that printer actually works. Once you get more experience under your belt, then maybe look at upgrading. You’ll know what feature it is you want/need, or you’ll have a problem in need of solving that only time and currency can fix.

Learn the basics. Learning how to tram (level) your print bed is critical for success. Being new and relying on a self leveling unit (without learning how to tram) isn’t a great idea, because they’re not foolproof. Think of a feature upgrade like a CR or BL touch for an Ender as a “tool” and not a “fix” and you’re light years ahead already. 3d printing is a great hobby but like any other hobby you’re going to fail few times before uou get it right. Learn how to verify your chassis and all axis are square. Learn how to calibrate your particular unit.

I ran into this with my e3v2 a LOT. Are you heating up the bed and nozzle before you level? You may have answered that and I missed it. Also, I’m not sure how well those silicon things work, I did the “yellow springs” and then make them all equally tight, then level by loosening. Another thing to check- is your build surface flat? Check when cold and hot. My glass bed wound up warping up near the middle ever so slightly and that would be enough to make a batch of moms spaghetti. I was able to get it working well for a while, then it somehow shit its pants into the silicone sock and mucked up the whole hotend with nice black pla+.