Okay. I live in a town with a population barely over 2000 people, the paved road ends at my house and continues on as dirt roads, I’m surrounded by miles of empty lots of wild growth with a few houses interspersed here and there, and I have one direct neighbor across the street with the next two closest neighbors being a quarter mile up the road.

I guess I don’t understand your definition of rural then. Or you don’t understand just how far wifi signals can travel when there are no obstructions, or that people can have multiple network SSIDs in their home (hell, I have three, one for 2.4 GHz, one for 5 GHz, and then a separate 5 GHz for a work network). Rural doesn’t mean tech illiterate.

Edit - and to be clear, most of the signals I see are probably too weak to be usable due to attenuation, but I can pick them up all the same via Wifi Analyzer. How many networks I see is dependent on the device used. Currently my mini-PC only sees my networks, then a Roku somewhere (probably neighbors across the street) and another single network at low strength, but it varies.

I used to easily see dozens or more networks in the city if sniffing for them. Your PC’s wifi won’t list all of them, just the strongest signals and there will still be many because city life is saturated that way.

Yeah. I’m in the rurals and at any given time can see between 5 and a dozen networks. Years back when I was apartment living, there was a ridiculous number of networks in range, couldn’t even give you a count.

If you’re curious and have an android phone or tablet, check out WifiAnalyzer. It gives a graphical view of nearby Wi-Fi networks, channels they’re on, signal strength, and so on.

You’d be surprised. I have one neighbor across the street and my next closest is a quarter mile up the road. I still see multiple Wi-Fi signals to connect to, 2.4GHz wifi can travel way farther than you might think.

Best to let it have an IP but block WAN access so it can’t leave the home network. This also keeps the TV from complaining about not being connected.

I don’t use pi-hole currently, but have managed access via my router. My LG C1 has been locked down to LAN access only for a long time.

It’s kinds great this way. Since it has an IP it doesn’t give me any bullshit about network, but no traffic escapes the home network.

Ah thanks. I didn’t follow to the release page and just skimmed the article, should have read closer.

Maybe a stupid question but… what exactly was illegal about this? I’m sure there were ToS or EULAs violated, but what law is he being charged on?

I mean, it should be fine, just because the PSU can provide more watts doesn’t mean the system is actually using that much power. I have an 800w PSU in my gaming rig, but its average load is only 240 - 320w during gaming (I’ve measured it by powering the system with a portable Ecoflow battery).

Just be sure to get the edge release if you care about gaming or have current (like newer than 2021) hardware. Mint’s main release is on an old kernel, 5.15 I think. Mint edge release is running kernel 6.5, which is from earlier this year.

“The incident is widely characterized by critics as an example of mishandled manhandled customer service.”

Just a typo.

Microsoft will just enable it via an update once all the fervor dies down. They haven’t abandoned the plan, and won’t, not while your data is pure profit for them.

Hell with them, no more Windows PCs in my home. I’m sick to death of everyone and their mother trying to both advertise to me and sell my data without my permission and at zero benefit to me.

The fact this is even necessary makes me want to shit a brick.

“Do you want to make an online account?” No. “Okay, please set up your local account.”

That should be it. And honestly, even that’s egregious to me. Signing into online bullshit should be opt-in, not opt-out. Thank goodness I don’t use Windows anymore, finally wiped the last Windows machine in my house this past week.

Also if i want to make a plex server on an old PC, what would people recommend?

My plex server is headless, running Almalinux. Doesn’t take much, I have it running on a very old NUC8 (NUC8i5BEK). The box is also running Asset UPnP and AudioBookshelf server too.

Personally, unless the server will also be the client (as in, you’ll be watching from the server box and not a streaming box, tablet, TV app, etc), I’d skip any GUI and just install it from the terminal, save your resources for what matters. Desktop environment is pointless for a server machine.

If you were buying a cheap machine to handle it today, I’d probably recommend a Beelink (or other) mini-PC with a Ryzen 5000 series chipset (5500u/5560u models with 16GB RAM can be found very cheap, generally $215-$240 new these days). The 5000 series in particular are very power efficient for something you likely will leave on all the time, and have both 6c/12t and 8c/16t variants, though the 8 core ones will probably be more like $300-$320.

Whatever you buy, if it comes pre-installed with Windows, delete the OS. I wouldn’t trust preinstalled on these boxes, and in any case Microsoft is getting really sketchy with this whole Windows Recall thing anyway.

Try entering the pin wrong repeatedly. May not work, but there’s a setting to force a wipe if it’s entered incorrectly 10 times. Will only work if that was enabled that at some point, but it’s worth a shot.

For instance, you can’t factory reset an iPhone without connecting it to either an OSX computer, or a PC running their special program.

This is patently untrue. Settings -> General -> Transfer or Reset iPhone. You have the option from there to wipe all data, do a full factory reset, or transfer the phone’s data to another device.

I’ve no idea where you’re getting your info from.

You’re not likely to do that for $150. You might be able to pull an old Dell Precision T5500 tower with a weak Xeon on eBay for cheap and refit it with more ram, better CPU and cheap non-redundant storage for $200 - $250.

For sake of power requirements though, seriously consider your use case and needs. You can get by pretty well with cheap mini-PCs like Intel NUCs or AMD minis like Beelink for pretty cheap and just cluster them with something like Proxmox to scale out instead of up when you need additional resources. This will be reasonably priced and keep the power bill and noise levels down.

But otherwise I learned the hard way many years ago to just buy Logitech after purchasing a stupid expensive gaming mouse from a brand I’ve forgotten whose left click died in less than a year.

Seems to be a problem in general. I’ve been using Elecom trackballs for years, first one I bought still works. Ones I’ve bought in the last year all started wigging out on left click within a couple months. I took one apart recently to swap the mouse switch with a quick solder job and it’s good as new. Seems like the newer ones are using really cheap Chinese Omron switches that die quickly. IIRC the older one uses a Japanese Omron switch. The new one I soldered in is a Kailh GM2.0.

Shit like this is why my LG C1 is restricted to LAN access only in my router (local network for automation purposes) and can’t communicate with the internet.

Shit like this is why my LG C1 is restricted to LAN access only in my router (local network for automation purposes) and can’t communicate with the internet.

I bought a Brother laser printer some years back for like $120 and am still working on the starter toner cartridge. HP can fuck right off with this.

Hey, check out the resmed airsense 10 autoset card-to-cloud version. It’s a lot cheaper and has no cellular connectivity, no wireless module. I just found out about it tonight, thinking of buying one as a backup machine. Looks like it ticks all your boxes.

CPAP.com has a starter bundle for it right now for $400.